📋 Overview
The 150W DC-DC Step-Up (Boost) Converter Module takes a lower DC input voltage (10V–32V) and steps it up to a higher, adjustable output voltage (12V–35V). It can deliver up to 6A of output current and up to 150W of power with adequate cooling — making it a versatile building block for automotive, solar, battery, and DIY power supply projects.
The module is based on the UC3843 PWM controller IC — a well-proven chip that's been used in power supplies since the 1980s. It uses a standard boost converter topology with a MOSFET switching transistor and a potentiometer in the feedback loop to set the output voltage. The design is straightforward and reliable, but it's important to understand that this is a boost-only converter: the output voltage must always be higher than the input voltage.
The output voltage is set by turning the onboard multi-turn potentiometer. There's no digital display or readout on this module, so you'll need a multimeter to set and verify the output voltage. The potentiometer allows fine adjustment across the full 12V–35V output range.
⚠️ Important: This is a step-up (boost) converter only. The output voltage must always be set higher than the input voltage. If you need to step voltage down, you need a buck converter such as the LM2596 or XL4015 module. This module has no built-in over-current, over-voltage, or reverse polarity protection — always double-check your wiring and voltage settings before powering on.
📊 Specifications
| Converter Type | DC-DC Step-Up (Boost) |
| Controller IC | UC3843 PWM Controller |
| Input Voltage Range | 10V to 32V DC |
| Output Voltage Range | 12V to 35V DC (adjustable via potentiometer) |
| Maximum Output Current | 6A |
| Maximum Output Power | 150W (with forced-air cooling); 100W (natural convection, no fan) |
| Conversion Efficiency | Up to 94% (typical, varies with input/output differential and load) |
| Switching Frequency | ~100 kHz |
| Output Voltage Adjustment | Multi-turn potentiometer |
| Input/Output Connections | Screw terminals (IN+, IN−, OUT+, OUT−) |
| Protection | None built-in (no over-current, over-voltage, or reverse polarity protection) |
| Operating Temperature | −40°C to +85°C |
| Dimensions | Approx. 65 × 48 × 23 mm (2.56 x 1.89 x 0.91 inches) L × W × H |
| Weight | ~40g |
📌 Pinout
The module has two pairs of screw terminals — one pair for input and one pair for output — plus an onboard potentiometer for voltage adjustment.
Screw Terminals
| IN+ (VIN+) | Positive input terminal. Connect to the positive terminal of your DC power source (10V–32V). |
| IN− (GND) | Negative input terminal. Connect to the negative terminal (ground) of your DC power source. |
| OUT+ (VOUT+) | Positive output terminal. Connect to the positive input of your load. Voltage is set by the potentiometer (12V–35V). |
| OUT− (GND) | Negative output terminal. Connect to the negative terminal (ground) of your load. |
Basic Wiring Diagram
Steps:
- Connect input power supply to IN+ / IN−
- Connect load to OUT+ / OUT−
- Verify all connections before powering on
Onboard Controls
| Potentiometer (Trimpot) | Multi-turn variable resistor that sets the output voltage. Turn clockwise to increase output voltage; counter-clockwise to decrease. Use a small flathead or Phillips screwdriver. |
💡 Tip: The input and output share a common ground internally. The IN− and OUT− terminals are connected together on the PCB.
🔧 Setup & Configuration
Setting up the boost converter is straightforward, but it's critical to set the output voltage before connecting your load. Here's the step-by-step process:
Step 1: Pre-Set the Output Voltage (No Load)
- Connect your DC power source (10V–32V) to the IN+ and IN− screw terminals. Double-check polarity — there is no reverse polarity protection.
- Do NOT connect any load to the output terminals yet.
- Connect a multimeter to the OUT+ and OUT− terminals, set to DC voltage measurement.
- Power on your input supply.
- Slowly turn the potentiometer with a small screwdriver while watching the multimeter. Turn clockwise to increase the output voltage, counter-clockwise to decrease it.
- Set the output to your desired voltage. The potentiometer is multi-turn, so fine adjustment is easy.
Step 2: Connect Your Load
- Power off the input supply.
- Connect your load to the OUT+ and OUT− terminals.
- Power on the input supply again.
- Verify the output voltage with your multimeter under load — it may drop slightly compared to the no-load reading. Adjust the potentiometer if needed.
⚠️ Warning: Always set the output voltage before connecting your load. The module may power on with the potentiometer set to maximum output, which could damage sensitive equipment. When in doubt, turn the potentiometer fully counter-clockwise first to start at the lowest output voltage, then increase gradually.
🔋 Power Derating & Thermal Management
The module is rated for 150W maximum output, but that rating assumes forced-air cooling (a fan blowing directly on the module). Without a fan, you should limit continuous output to approximately 100W to prevent overheating.
Power Calculation
Output power is calculated as:
Power (W) = Output Voltage (V) × Output Current (A)
For example, if your output is set to 24V and your load draws 4A, that's 24V × 4A = 96W — within the safe range for natural convection cooling.
Derating Guidelines
| Cooling Method | Maximum Continuous Power |
| No fan (natural convection) | ~100W |
| With fan (forced air) | ~150W |
Thermal Tips
- The MOSFET and inductor are the primary heat sources. If either gets too hot to touch comfortably (~60°C / 140°F), reduce the load or add a fan.
- Mount the module in a location with adequate airflow. Avoid enclosing it in a sealed box without ventilation.
- For sustained high-power operation (above 80W), a small 5V or 12V fan directed at the module is strongly recommended.
- The greater the difference between input and output voltage, the harder the converter works and the more heat it generates. Keeping the input voltage as close to the output voltage as practical improves efficiency and reduces heat.
🔌 Wiring Examples
Example 1: Stepping Up 12V to 19V (Laptop Charging from Car Battery)
A common use case is boosting a 12V car battery to 19V for charging a laptop.
| Connection | Details |
| IN+ / IN− | 12V car battery (or cigarette lighter adapter) positive and negative |
| OUT+ / OUT− | Laptop DC barrel jack positive (center pin) and negative (outer barrel) |
| Potentiometer | Adjusted to 19V output (verify with multimeter before connecting laptop) |
⚠️ Warning: Verify the exact voltage and polarity required by your laptop before connecting. An incorrect voltage can permanently damage your laptop. Most laptops require 19V or 19.5V — check the label on your laptop's original power adapter.
Example 2: Boosting a 12V Solar Panel to 24V for a Battery Bank
| Connection | Details |
| IN+ / IN− | 12V solar panel output (through a charge controller if applicable) |
| OUT+ / OUT− | 24V battery bank input terminals |
| Potentiometer | Adjusted to the battery bank's required charging voltage (typically 27–29V for a 24V lead-acid bank) |
💡 Tip: Solar panel output voltage varies with sunlight intensity. Make sure the panel's voltage stays within the module's 10V–32V input range under all conditions, including partial shade.
Example 3: General Purpose Adjustable Power Supply
| Connection | Details |
| IN+ / IN− | Any DC power source (10V–32V) — bench supply, battery, wall adapter |
| OUT+ / OUT− | Your project or device requiring a higher voltage (12V–35V) |
| Potentiometer | Adjusted to your desired output voltage |
📏 Mechanical Drawing & Dimensions
- Compact module footprint for easy integration
- Mounting holes for secure installation
🚫 Limitations
- Boost only: The output voltage must always be higher than the input voltage. This module cannot step voltage down.
- No built-in protection: There is no over-current, over-voltage, or reverse polarity protection. A reversed input connection will likely destroy the module instantly.
- No voltage display: You need an external multimeter to set and verify the output voltage. Consider adding an inline voltmeter module if you need a permanent readout.
- Not suitable for sensitive analog circuits: Like all switching converters, this module produces some output ripple. For noise-sensitive applications, add output filtering (additional capacitors or an LC filter).
- Minimum load: The module may not regulate accurately with very light or no load. Output voltage can drift slightly higher under no-load conditions.
- Standby power: The UC3843 controller draws some quiescent current even with no load. This module is not ideal for battery-powered applications where ultra-low standby power is critical.
💡 Tips and Best Practices
- Always pre-set voltage before connecting your load. Turn the potentiometer fully counter-clockwise first, then increase to your target voltage while monitoring with a multimeter.
- Use adequate wire gauge. At 6A, thin wires will cause voltage drop and heat. Use at least 18 AWG wire for connections up to 3A, and 14–16 AWG for higher currents.
- Add an inline fuse. Since the module has no built-in protection, adding a fuse on the input (rated slightly above your expected maximum input current) is a smart safety measure.
- Secure the screw terminals. Loose connections at the screw terminals are a common cause of intermittent operation, voltage drops, and overheating. Tighten firmly but don't over-torque.
- Keep input voltage as close to output as practical. A 12V-to-14V boost is far more efficient than a 10V-to-35V boost. The greater the voltage differential, the lower the efficiency and the more heat generated.
- Monitor temperature during initial testing. Run your setup at the expected load for 15–30 minutes and check the temperature of the MOSFET, inductor, and diode. If anything is too hot to touch, add a fan or reduce the load.
- Input capacitance: For long input wire runs or noisy power sources, adding a 100µF–470µF electrolytic capacitor across the input terminals can improve stability and reduce input ripple.
🛠️ Troubleshooting
| Problem | Possible Cause & Solution |
| No output voltage | Check input polarity — reversed polarity may have damaged the module. Verify input voltage is within 10V–32V range. Check that screw terminals are tight and wires are making good contact. |
| Output voltage too low or won't reach target | Input voltage may be too low. Remember: output must be higher than input. Also check that the load isn't drawing more current than the module can supply at that voltage (P = V × I ≤ 150W). |
| Output voltage drifts or is unstable | The potentiometer may be worn or dirty — try turning it back and forth a few times to clean the wiper contact. Also check for loose screw terminal connections. Add input capacitance if the source is noisy. |
| Module gets very hot | You may be exceeding the safe power rating without adequate cooling. Reduce the load, add a fan, or both. Check that the voltage differential isn't unnecessarily large. |
| Output has excessive ripple or noise | Normal for switching converters. Add a 100µF–470µF electrolytic capacitor across the output terminals. For sensitive loads, add an LC filter or use a linear post-regulator. |
| Module worked but now is dead | Likely caused by reverse polarity, over-voltage, or exceeding the current rating. Unfortunately, there's no built-in protection — the MOSFET or controller IC may be damaged. Inspect for burnt components. |
| Audible whine or buzzing | Can occur at light loads when the converter enters a discontinuous conduction mode. This is normal and not harmful. Increasing the load slightly usually eliminates the noise. |
🎯 Typical Applications
- Charging laptops from 12V car batteries (boost 12V to 19V)
- Solar power systems — stepping up panel voltage for battery charging
- Automotive electronics — boosting 12V to power 24V accessories
- DIY adjustable bench power supplies
- LED driver circuits requiring higher voltage than available
- Battery-powered projects needing a voltage boost
- Powering 24V relays, solenoids, or motors from a 12V source
- Amateur radio and communications equipment power supplies
⚠️ Important Notes
- Do not exceed 32V input or 35V output.
- Do not exceed 6A output current or 150W output power (with fan cooling).
- The output voltage must always be set higher than the input voltage — this is a boost converter only.
- There is no reverse polarity protection. Double-check all connections before applying power.
- There is no over-current or over-voltage protection. Use an external fuse and verify output voltage with a multimeter.
- Do not operate above 100W continuous without forced-air cooling.
- The module will get warm under load — this is normal. Excessive heat indicates the need for better cooling or a reduced load.
- Always disconnect the load before adjusting the output voltage to avoid voltage spikes that could damage sensitive equipment.
🏪 Where to Buy
Buy the 150W Step Up Boost Converter Module →
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📚 Resources & Downloads
- UC3843 Datasheet: UC3843 PWM Controller — Texas Instruments
- Schematic Reference: 150W Boost Converter Schematic — Martin Jones Technology
- Component Documentation: 150W DC-DC Boost Converter Pinout & Specs — Cirkit Designer
This guide is provided by Envistia Mall for educational and technical reference purposes. The manufacturer and Envistia LLC (dba Envistia Mall) are not responsible for any damages or losses resulting from the use of this product. Always follow proper electrical safety practices when working with electronic components. Specifications are based on manufacturer data and are subject to change without notice.